waiting shed with an eagle archi-design in the park at the heart of Davao City

There is more cultural diversity in DAVAO than anywhere else in the Philippines. This immense city – one of the largest in the world in terms of land area – is home to the ethnic Bagobo, Mandaya, Manobo, Tiboli, Mansaka and B’laan tribes, whose ancestors were first to arrive in Mindanao across land bridges from Malaysia. Catholics mix freely with Muslims, and churches stand alongside mosques. The name Davao was derived from the word “baba-daba”, which evoked images of fire-breathing mythical figures and rituals of fire carried out before tribal wars. Other early settlers on the banks of the Davao River were tribes from the neighboring provinces of Kotabato, Zamboanga and Jolo. Conquest by the Spaniards failed repeatedly until the mid-nineteenth century, when invaders were finally able to overrun the Muslim enclaves. Christian settlers arrived soon afterward and the heady mix of cultures and beliefs was complete.

The city was no stranger to armed struggle, but the violence that took place in the 1980s almost brought Davao to its knees economically. This black decade, marked by violence from the MNLF and the NPA, earned Davao the notorious title of “Gun Capital of the Philippines.” Davao became a haven for the underground movement and a laboratory for urban guerrilla warfare. The emergence of an anti-communist group known as the Alsa Masa (Rise of the Masses) began in Davao, and this military-backed civilian defence force ultimately drove the NPA and MNLF away from the city. Davao today is a peaceful city, home to one million people and growing in stature as an investment and tourist destination. It’s the gateway to Mount Apo, at 2954m the highest mountain in the Philippines and a magnet for trekkers and climbers. Sun, sand and sea are also on the city’s doorstep at the many islands just off the coast. The biggest and most popular of these is Samal Island, where there are many resorts.

photo credit: FoNgEtZ